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Thanks "drinking hot water out of the fridge in NC". Their reasoning may be that hot water will give better looking cubes than "raw" cold water, but it will be harder on the inlet valves and the freezer will have to work harder to cool the water down before freezing it.

If you use the water dispenser a lot at one time, eventually, you may drain the chilled water and have hot water in your glass. Change it, although by now it could be a major problem depending on how it is piped.

Hot water actually freezes faster then cold water. But I would not want to use hot water for ice or to drink, hot water can be dirtier then cold water depending on what you use to heat your water.

Follow the what others have said and hook it up to the cold water. The answer is both partly correct and partly incorrect.

Hotw water will not freeze faster than cold water until it reaches the same temperature as the cold water.

But once the hot water has cooled to the ambient temperature, then it will freeze at a higher temperature than the cold water. Removing the heat from the "drinking water" or the "ice cube water" will add a load to the freezer's compressor.

What's to understand. Take a pot of hot water, and one of cold water. First you have to cool the hot one down to the temperature of the cold one.

That takes time and energy. Once the two are at the same temperature, then you can start chilling them. Because the hot water has few impurities, it will freeze slightly before the cold water.

THEREFORE, hot water will freeze quicker than cold water, only if they start at the same temperature, which is the condition that water pipes would be in after not being used for a while.

But hot water in a freezer ice maker will not freeze faster than if it had a cold water supply, total time and if the water was actually hot to start with , and chilling the hot water input will induce an additional load on the freezer, just like putting a warm item into it for freezing.

Why would I want to do that? He might not have a source that he can cut and paste a thesis about it from. These are the standard conventions for wire colors.

Not everyone follows the rules, so be careful. The ground wire is for safety. Additional wires In a volt setup, an additional wire, usually red or blue, normally indicates a hot wire controlled by a light switch.

What about volts? Green or bare wire is still ground. Using a multimeter to map out mystery wires On this multimeter, you use the setting in the lower right to measure AC voltage.

Mapping mystery wires in volts If you find an odd-colored wire, you can use a multimeter to figure out what it does. Mapping mystery wires in volts To map out , first you need to find your neutral.

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By continuing to use this site, you indicate you accept these terms. Ok Read more. So the potential difference between the two power lines is volts to operate the powerful volt heater in the spa, but the Line 1 to neutral difference is just volts to power v equipment such as an ozonator or even stereo system.

Not all spas operate on 4-wires, and many older spas only had 3 wire service. Never connect a 4-wire hot tub to 3-wire service. Other spa brands such as Hot Springs may require 2 independent lines which would then require 2 seperate GFCIs as per their own instructions.

The disconnect junction box with GFCI provides a safety shutoff near the spa. In the case of GFCI tripping, it is easier to troubleshoot when installed near the spa as well.

The GFCI is a safety device that can disconnect the power completely if a fault is detected. A wiring diagram of the circuit board and connections may be provided on the inside cover of the spa pack or in the hot tub's owners manual.

Parts and wiring needed for the electrical installation may include flex conduit, rigid PVC conduit and fittings as well as either 6 or 8 THHN stranded copper wire never use aluminum depending on your spa, length of the wire run and local code.

Your electrician may also need PVC cement and electrical tape. Regarding conduit, for hot tubs, flexible may be used if the run is under 6 feet.

The types to use include liquid-tight flexible metal conduit liquid tite flex or SealTite or liquid-tight flexible nonmetallic conduit in lengths of no more than 6 feet.

For longer runs underground, install underground wiring in rigid metal conduit,intermediate metal conduit or a nonmetallic system that is listed for direct burial such as 1" rigid Schedule 40 PVC electrical conduit.

This type of conduit needs to be buried at a minimum depth of 6 inches for metal and 18 inches for nonmetallic conduit.

The combination of rigid PVC conduit combined with short length of flexible is used as code permits. Note that a frost expansion joint PVC expansion joint may be required at the point where conduit comes out of the ground and enters a wall or wall mounted panel.

The electrician's installation process includes turning off the power at the main breaker and mounting the hot tub panel feet away from the spa, within the line of sight.

A conduit trench is dug being sure to check with local utility company to assure there is no buried cable or pipe there from the foot of the disconnect box to the spa.

Some spas will allow the interior routing of cable once you get to the spa cabinet. Note that it is never permitted to run underground wiring underneath a hot tub.

The tricky part is wiring the 4-wire GFCI correctly used for most hot tubs. The confusion lies in the way the neutral wire is handled in addition to Line 1, Line 2 and ground wires.

The white neutral wire from the back of the GFCI should be connected to the incoming service neutral wire, not the ground bus bar.

Load 1 input wire goes to load 1 terminal, load 2 input wire goes to load 2 wire.

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